Gorda

Just when and where did the first commune emerge
that could properly be called "hip"? The form seems to have evolved in
scattered locations between about 1962 and 1966 as a series of
communes, each more hip than the last, began
to crop up independently. The first, or one of the first, was Gorda
Mountain, reportedly founded in 1962 near Big Sur, California. Its
nature and role is difficult to assess, however, because information about
it is so sparse. Libraries in the area have no information on it, and Big
Sur history buffs, while they remember the community, tend to know few
details. Richard Fairfield, who devoted two paragraphs to Gorda Mountain
in his Communes USA, called it "the first open- land commune," saying it
began when Amelia Newell, who operated an art gallery on the coast highway, decided to make
her rural acreage open to anyone who would settle there. She apparently
had few takers at first, but after the hip communal movement reached full
steam there seem to have been more. Fairfield
reports that 200 were there in the summer of 1967, and that clashes between
the hippies and the authorities were intense, leading to a forced shutdown
of the community in 1968. Gorda's chief contribution to hip communalism
was its open-door policy; it may have had other hip features--free sex,
drug use--in its early years, but
documentation is lacking.
Excerpt
from" Thunderbird Boogie " by
Daniel
Francis Eggink
Pat Boyd and "Boydsville"
Following the end of World war ll , Pat
Boyd bought a small piece of property on the coast side of Highway 1 at
Gorda and built himself a Japanese style cottage where he lived doing Zen
meditation and producing simple art from found objects. Gorda was strategicly
situated near the edge of Monterey County and San Louis Obispo County so
no police from either county were around to interfere with Pats's beatnik
life-style and its accompanying use of Marijuana
and other intoxicants.
Hollywood types who liked to buzz
their sports cars up the coast road on their way to their hangouts in the
Carmel Highlands and Pebble Beach, would discretely visit with Pat and
share fresh Acapulco Gold, scored in San Diego for a $100 a kilo, as well
as other exotic imports to bend the brain. In the rarefied atmosphere of
saltwater, sage, and pot, the " Road People" and Pat developed a communial
comradry that is best described in Jack Keroac's "Dharma Bums". Many were
jazz musicians on there way to work at the Colony Club on Alvarado Street
in Monterey and the Jazz Workshop on Broadway in San Francisco's North
Beach. Sounds of trumpets and saxaphones swirled above the wave-washed
rocks. Substance use and abuse came and went with the tide as comedy and
tragedy shared the "South Coast" stage.
"BUGSY"
painting by Michael Bowen
Bob Polatzo, a native of Monterey,
was lured to Gorda on the southern fringe of the Big Sur community by the
poetic vision of Robinson Jeffers. There, on the mountain side of Highway
1, he pushed around a pile of granite boulders and roofed them with redwood
timbers to create a stone house for his wife and new baby. It was a work
of art without electricity or phone. Within lived beauty, intelligence
and strength until stark tragedy struck. Food got stuck in the babys' throat
and no contact with emergency aid was possible. By the time they reached
a phone the baby was dead and another utopian dream foundered on Big Sur's
rocky coast.
I first met Bob in the Spring of 1958
on Partington Ridge in Big Sur at the" D'Angola House", where Sandy Justice
was caretaker. I saw him more frequently as I worked as a waiter and bartender
at Nepenthe. Bob was a natural builder and, together with his partner,
Guido, the sandalmaker, built many fine walls in Big Sur. He preached of
an architecture that completely merged with the environment. Detchins Inn
was the place I would see him the most often and have lengthy discussions
about life and art. After that I would visit him at Gorda and assist in
rolling boulders and lifting beams.
Bob's dream was abandoned,
so, a young man named "Etien " moved in and Bob's stone house became a grass
roots commune hosting nomad bikers and assorted hitch hikers. The stone
house became a suburb of "Boydsville" and an A- frame house was erected
gentrifying the neighborhood a little.
Another of Bob's Monterey buddies
was sculptor and builder, Pat Cassidy, who bought property north of the Gorda store and ran a small saw mill.
Amilia Newel, the artist
wife of Big Sur, Sculptor, Gordon Newel, owned a gold-mining claim in the
Santa Lucia mountains. So, following her separation from Gordon, she opened a small art gallery in Gorda and bought Polatzo's stone house and
property.
Jazz,
being what Jazz is, involved Afro-Americans and a very dark-skinned
representative of that lineage, named Billy White, took
up residence in the Gorda A-frame, attracting a multi-racial flaver that
was lacking in any other enclave on the south coast. Billy's funeral party
was a Big Sur classic, held at Point 16 with a massive congregation of
black, latin, and white drummers. Another party of equal proportion
was that which celebrated W.M. Flatly's demise at the same historic site,
once the home of John "The Voice" Nesbet, renowned radio narrator
during the 1940s. Across the road on the mountain side of the former Nesbet
Estate is the New
Camaldoli Monastery and Hermitage.
Up the road at "Slates Hot Springs" Peter
Melchur was the hip host of what later, under Michael Murphy's ownership
and management, became "Esalen Institute". Peter was the one who first
brought psychiatrist, Fritz Perls, to Big Sur, launching his Gestalt therapy.
The hot springs themselves are a unique source of social healing and give
a unity of experience to the diverse eccentrics who have the money, skills
and strength to survive Big Sur. The coast road is always a work in progress.
Forest fire, flood and landslide are annual events.
That same spring, in 1958, I met a very
fine artist, "Jay Kip", who had his pottery kiln at Point 16. I was impressed
with viewing the artist at work. Soon after, I met U.C. Berkely trained
artist, Harry Dick Ross, who was the pioneer Big Sur wood carver and stone
cutter. Likewise, I met his notorious neighbor, "Henry Miller" with his
beautiful wife, Eve.
Further up the road Tom Sawyer, Nepenthe's
favorite bartender, was mixing the drinks at the round bar and Eric Barker
was the reigning local poet. Those who mounted the stools considered
it the center of the world. I
was there in the company of Kay Olay, an actress I was performing with
in "The Lark", a play being staged by Richard Baily at Carmel's Circle
Theatre.
Kay had introduced me to the
community of artists and writers who lived on "Huckleberry Hill" directly
behind the Army Language School in New Monterey. It included her husband,
New York writer, Lionel Olay, who later went off to Cuba to fight beside
Castro on the Isle of Pines and was killed in a purge of American volunteers.
Dominant among the residents
was Stanford educated Bruce Ariss, author of the fictional book, "Artists
and Models", which aptly describes the communal lifestyle of the
neighborhood as it was in the 1930s and 40s when John Steinbeck dwelt among
them. Bruce, and his wife, Jean, author of the book, "The Quick Years",
were part of the intellectual circle that frequented "Ring's Restaurant"in
Monterey, a wonderful roost with a walled outdoor patio where poets
read and art was displayed.
Jean Ariss told me a tale about Bruce that
condenses
his multiphasic mind into a coherent unit. It seems that while she was
in the hospital during the last week of a difficult pregnancy, Bruce did
a lavish job of feeding his large household of family and friends, but
he hated to do dishes, so he built another kitchen as the dishes piled
up in the first. The table in the new kitchen was on hinges connected to
the window sill and when dinner was over a servo-motor lifted the table
to the open window where a hose sprayed the table clean along with the
silverware attached by light chains
When Jean arrived home with her new baby she found two
kitchens filled with dirty pots, pans and dishes.
I've heard that the house has since
burned down, but, from its ashes truth rises above the smoke of self-sacrifice
reminding us that love remembers, love cares and love shares.
Bruce had worked as a contractor on the
building of the
Camaldoli Monastery near Gorda and was amused by the difficulty he
had communicating with the monk in charge when the subject of art was brought
up and the monk insisted that the art of the hermit was prayer.
In 1964 another
element entered Gorda. It was LSD. First, it
came up the road from Hollywood and, soon after, Northern California LSD,
produced by the legendary Owsley was being tested by Big Sur's "Psychedelic
Rangers". The "Psychedelic Rangers", who were mainly Vietnam vets,
included Don Lewis, Neal Rose, Barbara Johnson, Michael
Bowen, Rodney Richmond, Jonathen Reister and Jim Cook. They were all
artists and builders. Don Lewis had built a house in Garrapata Canyon on
the northern most fringe of the Big Sur Community and was doing work on
Kim
Novak's house in the Carmel Highlands. Rumour had it that he had been
the pilot of the helicopter that lifted an American out of the prison in
Mexico City as was seen in the movie "Bronson".Years later I was sitting
in a house in Santa Fe, New Mexico, swapping Big Sur stories with Dennis
Hopper and Tommy Masters, when a guest sitting quietly nearby said "It's
true. I'm the guy he pulled out." I asked him what his name was and he
said "Joel Kaplin". Don Lewis didn't live long after I met him but he will
never be forgotten. He was a real host with a big heart.
Dennis
Hopper and Michael Bowen

photo Bowen collection
Michael Bowen has sent me some e-mail with more of that story:
"It's me that plotted Joel Kaplan's
escape. Lewis was working on it and could not figure it out after many
tries and many bribes. He and Joel's sister came to me for my brain. I
agreed to solve the problem and get her brother out for a share in the
movie rights. So, Don, a crooked lawyer named Bill
Choulos, and I, drew up a contract for the rights. Then
I analyzed the situation and realized that their was an uncovered prisoner's
exercise yard which was quite large. At first I thought of a light cessna
plane. Then it dawned on me that a helicopter could be used. Further, I
realized it had never before been done. Thus, the element of surprise was
there. After that we went ahead with the plans. Vic Stadard, an old smuggler
friend of Don's obtained the helicopter, painted it the attorney general's
colors, and basicaly flew in and got Joel. I met Joel after he was out
and before he went to Argentina, at Choulos, the crooked lawyer's [Stinson
Beach] house. (Choulos was later caught by his boss, Melvin Belli,
selling cocaine out of Belli's law office basement in San Francisco. Mel,
then over 70, hauled the little crook into the street by his neck and fired
him as he threw him into the gutter on Montgomery Street). I was cheated
out of the film rights by Don and Choulos mainly because I wasn't around.
I had gone to India for awhile for my spiritual benefit. It pissed me off
for a while, but then it became clear that knowing it was entirely my brain
that made it work was satisfaction enough."
Nepenthe
Bowen
SanFrancisco
Oracle
Dutchy
of Tuscany
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